BUT HE IS STILL AN ADRENALINE JUNKIE!
Labelled ‘the heaviest wipeout in surfing history’ by many, Hawaiian born Porcella has survived being dropped, sucked back up and then slammed toward the reef below by a monster wave in Teahupo’o.
Speaking to Surfing Life magazine, the 27 year old described the experience:
“It was the most violent thing — I got annihilated,” he said. “I was bounced, pinballed on the reef, the whole 9 yd. Just up and over and up and over. It held me under pretty long. My life vest got blown off right away, and then the second wave drilled me — I actually hit the bottom even harder. Hit my back, my knees, and then I got about four more waves on the head after that … washed over the reef.”
His response….. to resurface, spit out some blood and go back out to catch some more waves! This amazing wipeout has been submitted to the TAG Heuer Wipeout of the Year category of the 2016 WSL Big Wave Awards.
SHARE HIS EXPERIENCE BY WATCHING THE VIDEO BELOW